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Cam Link Bolts Oil Filler Cap Suzuki Brake Banjo Tokico 6 Piston Banjo GS Swingarm Fork Spread GS swingarm Pivot GS 1100 Kat Fork Length '91/'95 gsxr 750 Fork '91/'95 gsxr 1100 fork Stock GS Rotor Side Spacer L/H Spacer 86-95 gsxr Rim GS 1100 Piston Pin |
14mm X 1.25 30mm x 1.5 10mm x 1.0 10mm X 1.25 260mm 16mm x 226mm 812mm / 32" 750mm / 29.5" 775mm / 30.5" 23.6mm 12.45mm / 0.490" 18mm |
R/Side Oil Gallery Bolt Oil Cooler Fittings Swingarm Max Length Nissin 4 Piston (90's) Stock Shock Length '91Up gsxr 750 Clipon '91/'95 gsxr 1100 clipon '91/'95 gsxr 750 Lower Triple '91/'95 gsxr 1100 Lower Triple '90's Gsxr Rotor Side Spacer GS Stock Sprocket Side Spacer 1150 Piston Pin |
14mm x 1.25 14mm X 1.5 545mm / 21.5" 10mm x 1.5 330mm / 13.0" 50mm 52mm 54mm 56mm 21mm 28.5mm / 1.122" 20mm |
When you are dialing in your cams you need to find top dead center of your piston. To do this you need a positive stop tool. You can buy one or if you are cheap like me you can make one. With this tool and a degree wheel you can degree the cams for some more of what we are all looking for more HP.
Thread the tool into the spark plug hole and rotate your crank slowly until the piston makes contact. note the degrees on the degree wheel. Turn the crank the opposite direction carefully until it makes contact again. This will give you the before top dead center and after top dead center degrees. Don't worry about the actual number on the wheel as it won't be correct. Add the two numbers together and divide it in half. This will give you the actual before and after top dead center number. Then you can reset the degree wheel to the number you just got without moving the crank. Make sure you correctly set the wheel to before or after top dead center in relation to where the crank is. Remove the positive stop tool, rotate your crank to zero on the degree wheel and you have exact top dead center.
NOw you know how it is used here is how you make it. Get a spark plug that fits your bike and brake off the tab and porcelain in the yellow box. Then get a bolt and drill a hole in the middle of the head for the center electrode to pass through. grind down the bolt head until it is small enough to fit into the plug. Cut it down to about three quarters of an inch, hammer it home and you are done. Or you can pay 25 bucks plus shipping for a fancy one.
I have seen many adds of Ebay that read 1100-1150 clutch....An 1150 clutch will not work with an 1100 crank. The 1100 Clutch gear has 87 teeth and the 1150 has 89 teeth. The 1150 gear is 2mm larger diameter than the 1100.The 1100 is 187mm and the 1150 is 189mm
There is another diff between 80's up to early 82 and late 82 and 83 clutches. The springs and spring holders on the late models are larger and not interchangeable with the early ones.
In the pic on the right I have over laid a late model backing plate over an early 82 clutch. As you can see the opening in the newer plate is much larger than the early one. The cups in the back of the basket are also much larger along with the three rivets that hold the gear on.
You can also click on the left picture and count the teeth yourself.
There are a few out there who are say you need to use a 6mm spacer when converting to 530 chain from a 630. This is not true. The stock sprocket on 1978-1983 gs750/1000/1100's have flat sprockets. There is a bushing/spacer behind the sprocket that is 18.60mm long.
The bushing/spacer actually passes through the dampening unit on the later sprockets and contacts the sprocket itself. Suzuki lists the same sprocket for all those years. A spacer however is needed for the outside of the sprocket. The 530 sprog is thinner which won't allow the sprocket nut to tighten up against the new sprog. A spacer fixes that.
IF you place the spacer behind the sprog you chain and sprockets will be aut of align by however much the spacer you use is. This is a dangerous situation.
Eng Torq
Chassis Torq
Gen Rotor
Specs
Specs 2
1000 Timing
1100 Timing
Wiring Diagram
You can make your own fitting to install any oil pressure gauge
on any 1980-83 GS1000/1100 or an 1150. What you do is use an old oil drain plug. Grind the top of
it flat and drill/tap the center of it to accept a brake line banjo bolt.
The size of the oil drain plug is 14mm x 1.25. I didn't use the existing bolt because it had been
chromed. The brake banjo is 10mm x 1.0 pitch for the tap. The oil drain bolt and the cam link
bolts are the only other 1.25 thread pitch on the bike. That way you can put the gauge up on the
triples where you can monitor it. If the gauge is down on the motor it will be an anchor before
you notice.
When installing an oil cooler to your 1000 or 1100 kat you need to know a couple things. ONe, you need to get an 1150 oil filter cover. It has a block in it that sends the oil to the galleries beside the filter cover and up to the cooler. The two galleries on either side of the filter cap have a bolt size of 14mm x 1.5 pitch. That is the size of fittings you will need. DANGER... IF you ever remove the cooler you have to replace the stock cover or you will DESTROY THE MOTOR.I have the adapters to AN-6 or -8 for 20.00/pair. For you 750 kats you will need to buy an adapted cover. You can run this setup with an 1100 stock cover but not much oil gets to the cooler so its more show than go.
For the katana and GS there has long been a consensus that the late 80's early '90's gsxr swingarm is the best fit. When I was told that I found a few
issues.
1. Pivot is a few mm to wide which requires the bosses on the frame to be ground off.
2. The peg stays have to be removed as the arm is too wide to clear.
3. Cosmetically the gsxr swings look very similar to the gs and I wanted to get rid of the
adjusters sticking out of the back of the arm. I was looking for the cleaner look of the new
arms.
4. The only way to stretch them is to cut and weld. No bolt on extensions available that I could
find. So I searched for better solution as I didn't want to butcher my frame. This is what I
found
The bandit 1200 swingarm answers all of my concerns.
1. Pivot is actually narrower than the kat.
2. The arm fits within the peg stays.
3. It has adjuster blocks that clean up the backend.
4. There are available bolt on extensions for this arm as you can see on my KAT.
The only issue
is with the rear brake plunger (for the kats) and the rocker pivot for the peddle. The rocker
hits the arm so needs to be messaged and some grinding needs to be done for clearance.
The other option is to spread the brake side peg stays 3/8". The brake plunger needs to be
shimmed out to make sure the rod is aligned strait. The return spring tab needs a grind and the rocker stop pad needs a trim. If you are running stock battery
configuration the mono mount needs to be cut off or it will hit the battery box. Also, twin shock
mounts need to welded on as with the gixxer arm. The bandit Pivot is 20mm where as the kats is
16mm so a bushing has to be made(see pic) The bandit pivot has play so trim the
stock bushing to tighten up the slack
The collar on the new bush is about 3mm to close up the distance between the swing and the frame. The
placement of the shock mounts are critical. Many guys move them forward to race the rear end.
That can be a problem not only for handling geometry but also for chain travel. If the mounts are
too far forward the chain drags over the pivot so when you twist the wick... you see the problem.
The proper place center bolt directly over the center of the weld for the axle/block
recievers.The "WORKS PERFORMAMCE" engineers suggested 5mm of material around the mounting hole. I
also insert the rubber bushing as in the stock swing. I have the pivot bushings made for 100.00/pr
usd
There are a couple of differences between the '82 and the '83 harnesses. The kill switch from the 82 WILL NOT work with the 83 harness. The plug is wired differently. Change the harness, change the kill switch or plug on the switch side or the bike will not turn over. The signal relay under the tank is also a diff plug.
Issues with a swap are:
1. GROUND CLEARANCE LOSS
2. FAIRING CLERANCE
3. BOLT ON EASE
4. SPEEDO DRIVE
5. TRIPLE COMPATIBILITY
The stock ground clearance for a kat is 6.9". Some like the early 90's gixxer 1100 forks but they are not the best bet for a Katana. They are too wide for the fairing and the extra inch gained by the length is lost by the top mount clipons.
The '90-95 gsxr 750 forks fit perfect into the katana fairing. they are 1" shorter but the clipons are mounted under the top triple so you gain that extra inch. There is a ground clearance loss of 3.5" (1" from dropping to 17" front wheel and 2 1/2" from the shorter forks)
One thing you can do is mount the forks in 2002 cbr 954 triples. they bolt right on and have a 1" drop top triple which drops the loss to 2.5". The forks are sprung soft from suzuki and should be resprung for the heavier bike. If you use gsxr triples use '93 as they have the correct steering stops. The 954 triples will need stops welded on.
You have to use the complete gsxr setup. The gsxr speedo will be correct as it is calibrated to the front wheel size. If you change the frontend you have to change the back tire so you are running radials all round or, buy a bias ply tire for the front.
You can't interchange any parts from the kat frontend to the gixxer. Get the complete gsxr front end. You can however use all the clipons controls on the gsxr clipons but use the gsxr brake master and lever. One other issue is the mounting of the clocks which is pretty strait forward as the gsxr top triple has mounting very close to the gs. All you have to do is spread the clock bracket apart a bit to make it fit. Be sure to take it off the clocks before you attempt it. Just a couple screws and its done.
If you check the nuts and bolts section of this page you will see that you cannot interchange gsxr 1100 and 750 triples or clipons but everything else you can. The 1996 and up gsxr changed stem bearings, went to flat rotors and lost the speedo drive and went to shorter forks in '2000.
Contrary to popular belief you can mount a 5.5 wheel with a 180 tire onto a stock GS swingarm. The spacer measurements are above in "NUTS and BOLTS". For the spacer between the brake hanger and swing just measure what you have left to fill With the early '90's gsxr wheel you can use your stock gs sprocket carrier. The wheel is a direct bolt on. You have to use the gsxr rotor and brake setup which means using the under slung caliper and hanger. You will need to find an attachment point for the brake torque arm either by attaching it to the frame or welding a mount onto the swingarm.
The 5.5 set up also requires a 5/8 off set front (countershaft) sprocket as well as a 530 chain conversion. Do not use the GS rotor side spacer with a gsxr brake hanger. It is the wrong size. Be careful you don't get a banana arm wheel unless you plan on using the armless hanger setup as it has a deeper set rotor and you may have trouble getting the brake arm past the tire. The hanger is also much wider with the armless setup. These wheels use an armless brake hanger. They also require the correct spacer between the hanger and the wheel which is different than a standard wheel. One way to tell is to look for a rubber dust cover over the bearing so it uses a diff spacer.
For a standard brake setup use the same sprocket side spacer and just measure and fill in the space outside the hanger on the brake side.
This is another method of obtaining an offset sprocket. If PMFR doesn't have one you can always make your own.
The diagram pretty much spells it out. The back of the sprocket being used as a spacer is actually your stock sprocket cut down. Remember you are only getting 10mm of offset. 5/8" offset is 15.875mm. So, you will need to make up the difference either by using a larger spacer behind the sprocket, or, machining down the sprocket carrier, or, a combination of both.
If you use a larger spacer behind the sprocket you will need to cut a little deeper into the center so the nut tightens properly. ONe other major point is to make sure the two are aligned perfectly before welding. Preferably while on an output shaft.
Get a piece of 10mm alum like in the pic. Find a tubular cheap laser pointer. Mark out 2-2 1/2 feet on a staight piece of something. Place a marker a distance away and mark a line the exact distance from the strait material or counter top to the center of the lasers light.
The cheap lasers lights will rotate with the body of the laser. That is why you have to calibrate it. Turn the body of the laser until it matches the line of on the marker. Then tape it or secure it somehow to the metal or alum. Use a pice as in the pic long enough to be able to have the light in front of the sprocket. In my case the laser light is 5mm above the alum so it is in the middle of the sprocket when lined up.This works remarkably well and is very cheap compared to the 80.00 price tag on the manufactured ones.
The nice thing about this setup is it will work with the chain on or off.
Make sure you don't get any tape under the metal as it will through off the alignment.
